Who would have guessed a sunny destination could swell with magic? The island of Siquijor in the Philippines is one of such places I had the chance to visit just before the pandemic set the world on fire. I spent three unforgettable weeks with some local friends I made who showed me around riding their motorbike, wind blowing in my face under a fairyland sunset. So much inspiration for fresh stories!
And then the visits got even more interesting.
Potions? Voodoo dolls? A mystic tree? It surprised me to see how magic permeates the mind of the locals on this remote island, which, I must confess, I had never heard of before. Century-old traditions are alive and there are claims about sorcerers and shamans. People flock from every part of the Philippines and from all over the world to pay them a visit, either to heal an emotional wound or to seek revenge against an enemy.
Although I did not visit any of those mystics myself, my friends mentioned them from time to time. My curiosity had the better of me, and I learned a great deal about the magic of the island since then. Here is what I discovered.
Magic on the Island of Fire
The island owes its name for the Spaniards who sailed to the island and asked the local witches to heal their crew. Spirits of the dead converge at that place where the magic is strong thus making it an ideal place to practice. The witches’ worked their magic and the crew members recovered from their illnesses.
Even more mysterious is when the Spaniards saw a myriad of fireflies on the island on their boats, making it look as if it was on fire. They decided to call Siquijor the island of fire.
I did not see so many fireflies during my trip. I might have seen one or two, but what I remember the most is the giant bee that stung me while riding the scooter to the mountains where the fireflies were hiding. The name is pretty though.
The island has mountains at its center, and it is surrounded by beautiful white sandy beaches. This gorgeous landscape is said to heal the body and the spirit, and it surely worked for me. It was the perfect retreat, away from the noise of the city.
Time for a potion !
Not too far from the exquisite Cambugahay falls, there is a 400-year-old enchanted tree. At its roots, you can have give your feet a little dip and let some tiny fish nibble at them. They love to feast on dead skin and soon you will see dozens of them swim over all over your feet! While having this spa treatment, you can take in the views of the majestic tree and learn about the legend of the engkanto, a spirit of the nature, that takes on the form of a white dog which sometimes visit and sleeps on the surface of the pool. This of course only happens at nighttime.
After some relaxing time and a few laughs (it is a rather ticklish experience), that is when things got interesting. Vendors around the place sell all kinds of potions, amulets and charms.
Love potions (gayuma) are the most famous and sought for by tourists. They contain 20 different herbs that have been picked up very specifically during Lent season. A few drops mixed with perfume or cologne can do the trick for you. However, it should be used with caution. Using magic is all about intentions. If you have any ill intentions lurking in your heart, things can go down quickly. This seemingly harmless love potion will backfire and make you feel every drop of darkness you were hiding, whether or not intentionally.
I skipped on that one. I have read far too many books in which characters do not take this seriously and end up cursed.
Medicinal potions are also available on the island, but their concoction is far more complex. They contain up to 200 different herbal plants that are carefully picked at specific times and locations. The Healing festival during the Holy Week is the ideal time to see the special herbal gardens where they grow the ingredients used in those potions. Shamans (mananambal) or witch doctors are the designated gardeners who will tend the plants and brew the concoctions with their ancestral knowledge.
The most essential ingredient is coconut oil. It may seem obvious how to get oil, but it is not. Only a coconut tree with a single grown coconut facing the eastern sun is suitable. It also has to be handled with care, and once it has been picked — gently — it needs to go through a ritual at Mount Bandilaan. The details regarding this ritual elude me (I did not find any book on the subject, probably because it is passed down through oral tradition), but there must be some chanting under the full moon involved.
Other ingredients include herbs, barks and local wood splintered into tiny pieces and placed in a small bottle sprinkled with coconut oil. Through various combinations of exotic ingredients, they can make a variety of potions such as the tawa-tawa (laughter), sumbalik (return), tulay (connection) and tulog-tulog (rest).
Magic to Heal the Soul
For stronger healing treatments, it is possible to visit a shaman (mananambal). They call one such complex ritual bulo-bulo. It is not very common, but it involves using a glass of clean water in which you drop a magic stone and then blow through a bamboo to make bubbles in the water. Then you rub the glass across the patient’s body and magic happens. The water will get filthy, which is a sign that the negative energy (or spirits) is being drained. Through repeating the process several times, the water will remain clean when all the energy has been cleansed.
I wish I had visited a witch doctor myself to know how it feels like, but I did not (maybe in the future!). You can however read this article about someone who witnessed it.
Dark Magic Rituals are a Thing
For dark magic rituals, mambabarang are your go-to sorcerers. They will take care of that unfaithful boyfriend of yours, the thief who stole your wallet, the cold-hearted arsonist who destroyed your house, or even that pesky daughter-in-law who is making your life miserable.
Their main job is to destroy or inflict harm, pain, disease and even death. If you wish to seek their help, come prepared. You will need to bring at least $170 CAD and something personal. Sorcerers draw their power from any object your enemy owns, but a photograph works best.
The vendors at the mystical tree also sold voodoo dolls, which I believe are tied to this kind of magic. They had various styles, but they were probably not infused with any real magic. But, as they say, it’s the intention that matters, right? I didn’t dare buy any in case it would backfire.
The island of Siquijor is a delight to visit if you are looking for a relaxing time. If you are more adventurous and take the time to get to know the local customs, then you may come across such a gem. I still regret not having made more research about this place before going. Those experiences can make a trip of a lifetime. Plus, it is fodder for some crazy stories to include in a future book!
Would you try any love potions or get a voodoo doll? What about seeing a witch doctor or a sorcerer? I feel quite tempted to pay a visit to a witch on next time, if not for the experience. Please share any unusual experience you have encountered while traveling or even at home!
Paalam!
David M. Snow
References:
Official website for tourism in Dumaguete:
BBC interview:
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20120402-magic-and-mysticism-in-the-philippines
Healing Festival by the government of the Philippines:
https://pia.gov.ph/features/articles/1020964
Travel Blog:
Good questions! I don’t believe in mysticism – love potions, witchcraft and similar. But that doesn’t mean I wouldn’t visit or buy a souvenir (and honestly, I think those are just that – souvenirs – I don’t think these locals actually believe that stuff, it’s just a way to make money).
Well, most locals respect those traditions and a lot of filipinos travel from all around the country to get those special treatments. I think it is more ingrained in their culture than we can imagine.
Locals absolutely ‘believe in that stuff’. Sure, some have found a way to earn a living from it, but doesn’t mean it’s a joke. Many Filipinos would not step foot on this island because they want to avoid any sort of dark magic. Perhaps rethink your comments when taking about people’s culture – you sound very ignorant.